Via S'Albufera Nature Area
by Will Wattles
The Hostal Paris made up for no heat and no sleep with a free breakfast that included cereal and fruit: the first of the trip. I loaded my gear onto the Montague MX folding bike and biked eastward from the Port de Pollenca along the expanse of Pollenca Bay and the Alcudia bay. On a lovely morning, I rode for miles and miles along the beach; it was a great way to start my penultimate day.
S'Albufera Natural Area
Eventually I turned inland and, after a little while, found the S'Albufera Natural Area - 2,000 acres of protected marsh accessible only to pedestrians and bicyclists. I pedaled the folding mountain bike along roads overgrown with rushes 20 feet tall seeing birds too many to count. Most I could not identify but I did recognize the purple gallinule, a large bird with bright purple feathers and pink legs. It looks a lot like a moor hen which is common on my bike rides in the southern U.S.S'Albufera features a route around the very extreme of the preserve so, of course, I was drawn to it. There were some puddles in the trail. After the first few, I told myself I should turn back before I got my feet wet. I couldn't resist though and pushed on along the now flooded road. I pedaled slowly so I wouldn't drench my panniers but not so slowly as to stall and have to put my foot down. Then I hit a deep spot and that was that.
At one point, on the edge of the preserve, I rode through a gate. I liked it because it exemplified the Mallorcan style of gate which I've seen many times on my rides. In addition, it marked the first time I had even seen a cattle guard (a series of steel pipes that vehicles can cross but cattle cannot) specifically designed for a bike. How cool.I stopped to take off a layer of clothing and enjoy the view.
A friendly white horse came over so I decided to take my apple break and share. She liked that and clearly wanted more. As I pedaled along, I obligingly stopped at every view point, and observation deck. I loved the solitude of the narrow trails claustrophobic with the rushes.Leaving the park I passed through the little town of Sa Pobla and followed a secondary road through a few turns and made my way to Inca for lunch. Ordinary describes Mallorca's third largest city and the little Cafeteria where I stopped to eat offered me anything I wanted to eat - as long as it was a bocadillo. I have this theory that ordinary Mallorcan's don't eat out; they just go there for coffee or drinks and then eat at home.
Great Cicloturismo Route
Leaving Inca, I found the Cicloturismo route with some difficulty. I am glad that I persisted as the route was really a delight. Typical of Mallorca's country roads, it was about half the width of our two-lane roads, forcing cars to slow down to pass one another. Given the limited road width, most drivers take some highway and leave the lane to cyclists. I passed the usual groves and fields of crops as well as acres upon acres of grape vines. In the distance to the east, I could see Puig Randa where I slept in the monastery. To the west, I could see the castle ruins above Alaro of my first hike.
Delightful Cappuccino in Palma
At Santa Maria, the bike route gave out and I rode the Montague MX along an ordinary road. It wasn't so bad and a tail wind pushed me along. I arrived in Palma and checked into the Hotel Terminus where they treated me like a regular. After a 55-mile ride I might have had a nap but had to meet a friend at Cappuccino. We talked for hours beneath the cathedral in a really delightful spot I recommend to all who travel here. I felt full of gratitude that I had such a pretty day and was able to spend it all outside on my full size folding bike, wet feet and all.
Mileage for the day: 55
Total trip miles: 430
Montague MX Mallorca Bike Tour - Final Post
More about Will Wattles... Will truly enjoys bicycle touring. Over the last decade, he's toured places such as Greece, Costa Rica, Malta, Chile and Venezuela. For more stories and photos from Will's previous bike trips, visit WillBike.com.
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