Yesterday, with great fanfare, the New Orleans Saints played their first game since Hurricane Katrina in the Superdome. A Monday Night Football game, it was televised nationally so perhaps you saw it. I did too - partly on tv & partly on my bike.
The game had been hugely hyped locally for over a week. Even elementary & high schools diverted from their strict dress codes, asking parents (like us) to dress their kids in black & gold (the Saint's colors) for the day. At 5pm, when I saw the jubilant, Mardi Gras like crowds streaming to the Dome, I knew I had to be in that number. I watched the festivities a little longer, then saddled up for an unusual night ride into the city.
Using the incredible QuadStar bike light and battery set sent to me by Wayne Johnson at ElektroLumens, I set out on the Lakefront Bike Trail through Metaire. It was dusk and there was a stiff breeze off of the lake. In spots the wind caused the surf to wet the asphalt trail surface. I encountered a few couples strolling and another cyclist with a bike light. The QuadStar was so bright, he thought that I was a car approaching and was surprised to see a cyclist instead.
The trail bridge between the Causeway and the Bonnabel Boat Launch has reopened so I made it to the Jefferson/Orleans Parish line in no time. Riding along Old Hammond Highway into Lakeview, I only 3 cars passed me. At first, I thought this unusual as this is a highly trafficked route; however, light traffic was the norm for the entirety of the ride. Go Saints!
In Lakeview (where I grew up), I rode on Robert E. Lee Blvd to Milne, the followed Walker St behind Mt. Carmel High School for 9 blocks to Argonne Blvd, then headed South into the heart of the neighborhood (route map of this ride). Lakeview was one of the areas hardest hit by Katrina's floodwaters. Block after city block was dark and vacant with doors to some homes wide open; however, on average, it seemed as if about 1 home per block actually had lights on and cars in front. Slowly, the city is rising from the mold & muck.
Just as I approached the train tracks immediately South of I-610, Amtrak's Crescent from New York City rolled past me. I decided to race the train to Union Station. Since the train must back in prior to arriving, I knew I had a fighting chance.
I rode down Orleans Ave; not a car passed me. At Delgado University, night classes were being held. Two cars left the school parking lot hastily. No doubt, the drivers didn't want to miss the start of the game. I crossed City Park Ave and made an immediate right onto N. St. Patrick Street. At Bienville St. I turned left. Crowd cheers roared out of the open door of a local corner barroom.
I crossed Carrollton Ave. As far as the eye could see, only a smattering of headlights were visible. Passing Liuzza's, I didn't notice any activity. The hulking, dark building formerly known as Mercy Hospital loomed above my head sad and empty. There are still no plans to reopen it.
I made a quick jog onto Jefferson Davis Pkwy then turned left onto Canal St. A pedestrian slowed and stared quizzically. Was it the bright bike light or the fact that some nut was racing through the vacant streets on a bike? Who knows.
With the wind at my back, I flew down Canal Street. Below the interstate overpass at Claiborne Ave, a group of rice burner racers laughed. No doubt, they thought their noisy rocket bikes superior. Different strokes...
I turned onto Elk Place and made my final approach to the Dome. Charter buses were double parked on the street and there were noticeably more pedestrians. I turned right onto Poydras. The Dome was lit with dancing colored lights. Flood beams shot skyward. People were everywhere. (Game crowd photo screenshot from Nola.com, website for the local Times Picayune newspaper)
I dismounted the bike and pushed it up the walk ramp to the the Dome's pedestrian plaza. Scalpers were everywhere trying to sell tickets but the game had already started and the Dome was full. Were the tickets counterfeits? I took in the scene. A lot of people milled about aimlessly on the Plaza, not seeming to be in a rush to get inside. Perhaps like me, they just wanted to be part of the experience even though they had no tickets. I knew I was missing the game but I also knew I'd catch it later on TV. If you're not seeing it in person, what's the point whether you're seeing it live?
Since security didn't challenge me on the bike, I rode down the ramp back to the street then did a victory lap around the dome. All those folks inside yet just 1 car passed me.
I rode towards the Mississippi River on Girod St. At Baronne, the street was blocked with barricades and there was a party going on. A bar had rented a huge projection screen the size of 2 or 3 FEMA trailers and was showing the game. It was just the first quarter and the Saints were killing the Falcons. The shouts of excited Saints fans echoed for blocks. A trio of hotties in mini skirts balanced shakily on their stiletto heals and crossing the street with drinks in hand. They looked like high priced prostitutes but were probably just heading to/from a football party in the Warehouse District.
I turned onto St. Charles for my run Uptown to the Mississippi River Trail. I passed Lee Circle. A drunk yelled from the base of Robert E Lee's statue. Was he yelling at me, the statue (which faces the Dome defiantly with arms crossed) or some other, unseen drunk?
I passed local eateries and watering holes. Many a door was propped open to take in the 70 degree F fall air and low humidity. Every so often, a convoy of cars would pass me. A young guy and his cute, blond date crossed in front of me with their eyes focused on the TV screen in a bar to my right. At a high end restaurant on the Avenue, a guy sat alone eating dinner dressed in coat & tie.
At Audubon Park, there was an up tick of traffic. Classes were in session at Loyola University and cars were parked up & down the street. A driver waited double parked. Another driver sat with the motor running; noise of the game wafted out of the car's window. Reaching the junction of St. Charles Ave, Carrollton Ave & the River, people were being drawn into Cooter Brown's like a magnet. Crowd noises roared from this popular Tulane & Loyola U. hangout. I stormed up the levee. A car was on the bike path, attempting to maneuver into the very last parking spot for the bar.
I rode the asphalt bike path atop the Mississippi River levee. Although the bike trail is unlit, the trail ahead of me was bright thanks to the QuadStar. Where the high tension power lines from the power station at Nine Mile Point cross the Mississippi, the break in the tree line afforded an unobstructed river view. A towboat stood motionless midriver; the horn of another tugboat moaned deeply in the distance. Past the city's water intake, I passed a lone walker. From the rear, it looked like he was walking with his hands in his pants in an odd position. I passed him quite quickly.
I exited the MRT at Dodge Ave. just east of the Huey P. Long bridge, turning right at the end of the street & making my way to Central Ave. Approaching the set of 8 railroad tracks just below the Earhart Expressway, I heard a train whistle but none were in sight.
I crossed Airline and continued on Central towards West Metairie. Winding through the neighborhood, I played tag for a few blocks with a kid on a single speed Walmart bike. I was faster but he knew the local shortcuts.
Cycling into a 10 mph headwind, I started feeling fatigued in the last half mile of the ride. When I walked in, everyone said "where ya been?" I replied "there" and pointed to the TV screen showing the game. In between the games many commercial breaks, I relayed all that I'd seen.
By the way, the QuadStar performed flawlessly the entire ride & was virtually as bright at the end as it was at the beginning. And the Saints? They beat the Falcons, 23-3. It was a most excellent evening.
Tuesday, September 26, 2006
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